Auckland to Wellington by train for a special fare of $49. The deal sounded irresistible and – like much about The Overlander actually – something out of yesteryear.

Sure, our start point at Britomart was state-of-the-art, gleaming, but the atmosphere was a bit of an exercise in nostalgia. We stood, a little sleepily, in a queue for 20 minutes admiring the setting. The online ticket isn’t a boarding pass and passengers are required to arrive at least 20 minutes before departure time of 7.25am.

“Darling,” the rotund woman in a navy uniform, said cheerfully, “I can fix you up. I’ll put you both in the last carriage, darling.”

The back of the train is glass all round with a lounge area and table where passengers can admire the receding landscape. But at this early hour we were more interested in the small food bar in the central carriage which – when open – dispenses coffee in cardboard cups. Unfortunately, it wasn’t open.

By the time the train rattled off we weren’t the only ones looking for a caffeine hit. The half-hour wait till the bar opened didn’t kill us but seemed unnecessary.

We knew we were in for the long haul. Auckland to Wellington by train has taken 12 hours for at least 50 years and it would be a pity to change. The snail’s pace is not just because of the number of stops – 15-17 depending on requests – or the narrow gauge. The terrain through a large scenic section in the middle of the island is rugged and tortuous and the track twists and turns.

So we settled in to the relaxing lilt of wheels clicking on rails and enjoyed the view, into back gardens, so different from the one you get from the road.

Initially, the seats weren’t too uncomfortable but as they don’t recline you’re stuck in one position and unless you bring your own, there’s no pillow. In the net in front of us was a strange metal object that resembled a tray. An astute neighbour worked out that the middle arm rest has a top that lifts, revealing slots the tray fits into.

These days commentaries on journeys are par-for-the-course. There was nothing much to say about Papakura or Pukekohe apart from assuring us of the necessity of stopping for the crew to carry out passenger work.

Not long after came views of the mighty Waikato river as the line followed alongside State Highway 1. The geography and history lessons were interesting enough, with the background to Ngaruawahia as the home of the Maori King, and we acknowledged the beautifully tended Maori cemetery on the hillside, visible to the left of the train.

Frankton is the name of Hamilton’s railway station. Ten minutes before our arrival we were warned that the food bar was closing and would reopen after we left. To avoid competition?

Next scheduled stop – the small farming centre of Otorohanga. Short of words, perhaps, our doughty commentator announced that there would be no passenger work at Otorohanga. However, she continued, our driver would slow down just to double-check.

The exchange of glances between two middle-aged couples, clearly North American from their voices, was patiently amused. The train was about three quarters full, perhaps half of whom appeared to be tourists.

Onward into the King Country and the most scenically rewarding part of the trip. Te Kuiti, then Taumarunui where we were warned “Please do not try and sneak off to the shops. Passengers get left behind at Taumarunui!” What, we wondered, were we missing out on.

From there until National Park the landscape was classic back country with solid stands of bush, dotted in spring with clusters of white clematis, and elegant viaducts across high spectacular gorges.

The gradient between Taumarunui and National Park is steep – a rise of 132m over 2km – and it’s here that we wound around the horseshoe loops of the famed Raurimu spiral.

The construction involved oxen, horses and small steam locomotives to carry materials in what is still a very remote part of the country. Only in the last two years was one of the first steam shovels brought in to help with the cuttings.

When the spiral was completed in November 1908 the first train, called the Parliamentary Special, travelled the Main Trunk line on a journey that took more than 20 hours.

The spiral is a highlight of the trip and hardy passengers took turns on the windy outdoor viewing platform (6 people at a time), leaning out to photograph the train’s curve. Then came the tunnels.

“Remember to pull your head in!” the commentator shouted.

At National Park, with a stop for half an hour for lunch (the train’s food bar having closed again), we were ordered to line up and wait patiently at the station cafe where, at least, the food was worth it.

By then, we were into the swing of this school-type outing and eagerly looking out for Kevin who, according to the commentator, waved a red towel every time the Overlander headed out of National Park. But my friend felt duly chastened when, tired of sitting upright, she lay down on the long seats in the empty lounge area and was spotted by the hostess.

“Sit up,” she said sternly. “You’re only allowed 20 minutes here.”

Tedium set in. The train rocked and rattled. We wished we’d brought pillows. Walking to the loo became a feat of balance. Even the promise of half-price food from the pie warmer after Palmerston North was little comfort. We were pleased to get out at Waikanae, 11 hours after leaving Britomart.

My previous train trip was on France’s super-fast TGV. Sure, the ticket cost an arm and a leg and I felt I was on a plane as the scenery whizzed past. But this was going from the sublime to the ridiculous.

Forty-nine dollars, November’s special, seemed about right.

But there’s something about the journey down the Main Trunk Line. Even at more expensive rates – the full fare is $119 – the Overlander is chugging full steam ahead into the summer season of seven days a week, December to April, up from the winter runs of three days weekly. Passenger numbers have increased 54 per cent since the 2004-05 season.

The Main Trunk line affords views of the landscape that are incomparably more interesting than those accessible by bus or car and the time to appreciate them.

Further information, fares and schedules see the Tranzscenic webpage.

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